This North Carolina town makes a great base for a Great Smoky Mountains trip

Having spent hundreds of days exploring national parks across the U.S., I’ve developed an abiding affection for the gateway towns that sit just outside them. They greet us when we arrive, see us off as we depart and offer rest-day distractions that are often the cherry on top of a brilliant park visit. When I head to my “home” park — Great Smoky Mountains National Park — I make Bryson City, North Carolina, my base.

Bryson City, about 70 miles west of Asheville, is a dream. The park’s Oconaluftee Visitor Center near Cherokee is a short drive away, and the Deep Creek area is about three miles from town. It’s easy to get to and even easier to love, whether you’re here for a hike-filled national park trip or would rather experience the Smokies beyond the trail.

What to do

The Tuckasegee River runs through downtown Bryson City, and it’s not unusual to see a few anglers out with fly rods hoping for a bite. Visit the Fly Fishing Museum of the Southern Appalachians for a peek at the region’s fly-fishing history, from rods and reels to knots and fly-tying techniques.

Great Smoky Mountains Railroad offers excursions along the Tuckasegee River, passing through the supposedly haunted Cowee Tunnel and stopping in the charming town of Dillsboro. Other trips venture into the rugged Nantahala Gorge. Fall foliage trips, kid-friendly holiday rides and special excursions featuring spirits round out the calendar.

I always end up at Bryson City Outdoors for new gear and a taste of regional craft beer at its taproom. I also stop by the Swain County Heritage Museum, in the historic courthouse, for a look into the area’s past, including relics and photos from long-gone logging operations.

Where to eat

For breakfast, two options stand out: Everett Street Diner and Bryson City Bakery & Coffee Shop. At Everett Street, go traditional with a big batch of biscuits and gravy or a stack of pancakes. The bakery offers coffee drinks, scones, morning buns and croissants, along with savory breakfast sandwiches.

Around lunchtime, try High Test Deli & Sweet Shop for a killer sandwich (of the savory or ice cream variety) and a pile of fries. 

Native-Brews Tap & Grill brings craft beer and a menu of pub favorites to town. Bryson City Brewing’s restaurant, Prohibition Flame, delivers big burgers, flatbreads and entree-sized salads to cure your hunger pangs.

For dinner, try The Tuck and Table or The Bistro at the Everett Hotel. Both spots focus on local flavors and ingredients to dish up a taste of the southern Appalachians.

Where to stay

The boutique Everett Hotel, home to the bistro, offers cozy, comfortable rooms for relaxing, recharging and planning the day. It occupies a former bank built in 1908, with little hints of its past throughout the space. See what you can find when you visit.

The Fryemont Inn (no relation) has served Smoky Mountains visitors since 1923. You can sleep, dine and unwind on the grounds if you find it so charming you just can’t bear to leave.

Of course, there are cabin rentals and campgrounds all around. Deep Creek Tube Center & Campground offers campsites, RV sites and cabins. At Nantahala Outdoor Center, you’ll find camping and cabins, too.

Trails and outdoor adventures

At Deep Creek — about three miles from town — the 2.4-mile waterfalls loop leads to a trifecta of cascades: Juney Whank Falls, Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls. Expect some steep sections, particularly on the approach to Juney Whank Falls. 

The Road to Nowhere is an unfinished road project in the park. Its tunnel sits at the end of Lakeview Drive, about 8.5 miles from downtown. Park near the tunnel and walk through for an odd bit of “trail” to explore — bring a flashlight. For a longer outing, pack your daypack and explore the backcountry trails near Fontana Lake and the trout-filled streams that feed it.

A parking tag is required when parking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park for more than 15 minutes.

It’s not all hiking in Bryson City. In summer, Deep Creek Tube Center & Campground, just outside the park’s Deep Creek entrance, rents tubes for a float — a perfect cool-down activity. Check rental availability and creek conditions before going. 

Mountain bikers will want to visit Tsali Recreation Area, west of Bryson City, where roughly 40 miles of trails await. Bikes and horses use the loops on an alternating schedule, so check the posted trail-use schedule before riding.

At Nantahala Outdoor Center, you’ll have a chance at whitewater thrills and guided outdoor experiences. Paddle through Class II and III rapids on a guided rafting trip, join a mountaintop zip line tour, have a guide show you the right lines at Tsali or go for a guided hike. Activities run on different seasonal schedules, so check availability before planning around them. 

You could always pop in for lunch and a short hike on the Appalachian Trail, which passes through the NOC campus west of Bryson City.